Plumed Horse, Edinburgh – a michelin star for the birthday girl

Despite flu, freezing temperatures and airport delays, we started 2011 with a visit to Edinburgh to celebrate the 40th birthday of the lovely Sherri (the baking diva of white chocolate chip cookie fame).  Staying at the magnificent Balmoral Hotel in Princes Street (best shortbread, ever) we turned up for her surprise birthday dinner arranged by her partner, Mark.

Edinburgh is rich in michelin starred restaurants and in fact the dining room at the Balmoral itself has a michelin star, but in the week after New Year, only one was open! At least that took away any disagreement as to where we went, although I have to say I was a little disappointed to miss out on ‘the Kitchin’ as Tom Kitchin is rather a favourite of mine, curly haired little minx that he is.

A short taxi ride from the city centre and we arrived at the Plumed Horse.  The restaurant was first started at Crossmichael in 1998 by chef Tony Borthwick and his then business partner. It did exceptionall well for an out-of-town restaurant and when it moved premises to the business area a couple of years ago, breaths were bated as to whether he could sustain his michelin star, which he did in 2009. The restaurant itself is unpretentious and reasonably small, but the staff were welcoming, this is not over-the-top michelin glitz, but felt comfortable. They display paintings from local artists on their walls, which I though was a great idea to promote the local art scene. We opted for their tasting menu at £59.00 per head with a wine selection for each course at a further £40 per head.

Unexceptional canapes kicked off with a lovely glass of champagne to toast the 40th birthday, followed by a really delicious veloute of Jerusalem artichokes, which was light and fluffy, garnished with a quail’s egg, chives and truffle oil. This was followed by the fish course which was Sauteed Fillet of Sea Bream, Hand Dived Scallop,Chickpea, Smoked Haddock & Crab Casserole,Saffron & Mild Curry Spices which I found mildly disappointing – the sea bream wasn’t as melting as I would like and I couldn’t taste either the crab or the curry in the casserole. The next course of foie gras and wood pigeon was rich and flavoursone and the thyme brioche accompaniment was very good with it. As the birthday girl commented “Who doesn’t like bread?’. This was followed by  Lamb with spinach, clapshot (mashed potato, turnip and carrot), Rosemary & Garlic Gnocchi and lamb jus. The lamb was nice, but not amazing and I found the clapshot a little bland whereas the gnocchi were almost over-seasoned but all in all a very nice dish. We were served a pre-dessert which was really the first time the whole table “ooh-ed and ahh-ed”. This was a small glass dish with a lemon and ginger meringue dessert that was sublime, better in fact than the actual dessert which followed it, Honey & Clotted Cream Parfait with mulled wine poached plums. There wasn’t anything wrong with this dessert, in fact the parfait itself was creamy and delicious, but honey and plums simply aren’t my favourites.  the meal was rounded off with some petits fours served on a thoughtfully “Happy Birthday” chocolate  iced plate.

The wine choices throughout the meal had been well worth it, they were thoughtful and well-suited to the food and plentiful to the extreme, as our lovely waiter was simply serving a quarter bottle each per course.

We had a fantastic evening, Sherri looked and was amazing on her birthday night and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Would I go back even if it was local to me? I would probably give it another chance as some of the food was very good, but at no point was I blown away, but do remember, I’m very critical!