Don’t get excited, it’s not that sort of a blog. We are talking about preparing for Christmas Day and today we are making Cranberry Sauce as demonstrated by the lovely Ellie, pictured above.
Christmas is coming and I’m getting fat. Oh dear, why do I always leave the pre-Christmas diet until it’s too late? A subconscious cave woman-type instinct to put on layers of fat in cold weather, I suspect…or am I just incredibly greedy? I’ll leave you to be the judge.
Anyway,as many of you know I love celebrating Christmas and despite the fact that numbers are very reduced for us this year (only 6 vs 28 last time) doesn’t mean that there will be any less celeberation and meticulous project planning. Yes, I know I turn into the Christmas Mumzilla, but it really wouldn’t be the same without me having the occasional strop would it?
So this year’s menu is…fanfare, please.
Kir Royales, made with home-made blackberry brandy
Bloody Mary Capuccinos
Chicken Livers with a garlic, ginger and lime crust in pastry
Lobster Ravioli with Champagne pearls
Sorbet with champagne
Roast turkey with a confit of goose, accompanied by roast potatoes, brussels with chestnuts, red cabbage, peas and all the usual trimmings, stuffing, sausages, bacon rolls, bread sauce and cranberry sauce.
Christmas pudding with custard and cream
Christmas Baked Alaska
Today, however we are starting with Cranberry Sauce. Fresh cranberries are available in the supermarket from about now, and whilst you can buy fresh, cranberry sauce, it is so, so easy to make your own. I always buy them now, make and freeze the sauce; ready to take out on Christmas Eve.
Ingredients:
150g caster sugar, the Juice and zest of 1 lime and 1 orange, made up to 150 ml with water,
300g fresh cranberries.
To serve on the day: zest of 1 orange or lime OPTIONAL: Add: 2 tablespoons of triple sec, 1 tablespoon tequila: for a very grown-up “cosmopolitan meets margarita-style sauce.
METHOD:
Add the sugar, water and orange and lime juice and zest to a saucepan
Over a low heat, gently dissolve the sugar and simmer for 2-3 minutes until it is clear and syrupy
Add the cranberries and bring to the boil – this is the best bit as you can hear the beautiful little red berries popping.
Reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes
Remove from the heat, cool and freeze if you wish
Before serving: Add the orange zest and if wanted, the triple sec and vodka
(If you want to make a less alcoholic version but want the flavour, add the booze at the end of the cooking and boil for a further few minutes which will burn off the alcohol but leave the taste)
And that’s it! Watch this space over the next weeks for more Christmas loveliness.
I am very pleased to welcome back one of our favourite teams of guest bloggers, Pete and Lynda Russell have been taking it for the team and putting themselves through the agony of wine tasting in North Sonoma….it’s a tough job, but someone had to do it. Over to you, guys…I’m booking my next California holiday NOW
RRV’s AVA (American Viticultural Area – similar to the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system) dates from 1983 when just under 100,000 acres was accorded AVA status. Now with near on 130,000 acres under vines, it’s proximity to the Pacific, the relatively cool climate and the evening fog, plus the river bed location, make it ideal for growing Burgundian grape types such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The reason for our visit? Does the value and quality match that of Burgundy and/or New Zealand? We booked into the “West Sonoma Inn & Spa” for an overnight stay, spotted that “The Restaurant at Applewood” had recently been awarded a Michelin star, and booked there for dinner.
At just around 90 minutes after leaving our home in the East Bay, we found ourselves at the “Hartford Family Winery” on the western reaches of Russian River.
We’d heard that Hartford’s wines were often rated in the 90s (out of 100, the Robert Parker way, see http://www.erobertparker.com/info/legend.asp), and were anxious to try their Burgundian varietals. We had intended to taste at 2 vineyards, this one and “Sbragia” (Ed Sbragia recently retired from Beringer and was responsible for the best Chardonnay we’ve had) way up north in the RRV region, but after an incredible 11 wine taste at Hartford, our palates were too tired for Sbragia. I won’t regale you details of all 11 wines, but here’s the three we bought:
Hartford Court 2008 Stone Cote Chardonnay: This wine had spent 11 months in oak, had that delightful vanilla spiciness on the nose which indicates a Mersault-like Chardonnay. One to cellar for 2 years or so.
Hartford Court 2008 Fog Dance Pinot Noir: Grown in the cool Green valley district, we noted cherry, raspberry and rose like aromas, some tannin in the taste indicates its youth, its all round elegance make this an outstanding, subtle Pinot which will take a few years in the bottle before giving its best, although it’s drinking well now so we’ll probably drink it this Thanksgiving.
Hartford 2007 Russian River Valley Zinfandel: Very different from the big, chewy Zins we have been drinking lately. The cool climate here makes for a longer growing period with less tannin. We thought this very elegant, again cellaring for a couple of years will be beneficial.
A relaxing lunch was now called for, and as chance would have it, the “Korbel Champagne Cellars” tasting room just up the road had a deli/cafe that had been recommended. Pete ordered a salami and brie sandwich washed down with a Mimosa (Buck’s Fizz to you and me), and Lynda chose the pulled pork sandwich and Pomegranite Bellini. Fortified, we ventured into Korbel’s tasting room. Now Korbel have been making sparling wine by the méthode champenoise technique since the mid-1890s, but we’d seen their Brut Rose in supermarkets, and were put of by the price (cheap, around $10 per bottle) and label design, I know, how very silly!
We inserted ourselves into the milling throng, everybody anxious to get their 4 tastes for free, and I must say we were agreeably surprised. We chose to taste the Korbel Natural ($12), Korbel Brut ($10), the Korbel Chardonnay ($10) and the Korbel Extra Dry ($18.50), all champagnes and all very drinkable, especially in Lynda’s new love, champagne cocktails, of which more in a later post! We purchased a bottle of the Chardonnay-based champagne and hi-tailed it to our hotel for a nap before dinner.
Not much to be said for the West Sonoma Inn & Spa, except it was good value and very acceptable for an overnight stay.
Over at The Applewood, Bruce Frieseke, executive chef, is ‘amazed’ at his newly minted Michelin star, he’s off the beaten track, Guerneville is not one of California’s most elegant towns, and a 10-roomed B&B isn’t a natural for Michelin recognition. Apart from a little cock-up with the timing of the starter, we thought it was great and tremendous value. As one would expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant, the food was thoughtfully designed, elegantly presented and left us in no doubt that the kitchen deserved it’s accolade. But the way the menu was presented was an object lesson in how to sell wine. With each dish, the wine list recommended an old world wine bottle, a new world wine bottle and a wine by the glass. We had brought along a bottle of red and a bottle of white since the restaurant allows its clientele to bring its own wines at a cost of $20 corkage/bottle, but we decided to go with the recommended wines by the glass. For starters, Pete’s Croquette of Salt Cod Brandade with Grilled White Shrimp in a Guajillo Chili Broth was very pleasing, the broth adding a piquancy to the flavour with the chewy flesh of the three whole shrimp complementing the softness of the croquette. As we all know, Lynda’s love affair with fungi has still a long way to go, and her Madeira Scented Forest Mushrooms, Soft Cooked Duck Egg and Truffle didn’t disappoint. Lynda’s entree of Braised Short Rib of Beef, Pumpkin Polenta, Cipollini Onion with Parmigiano and Sage looked almost chocolaty on the plate and was rich enough to deserve this description, the polenta acting as a foil for the richness. Pete had to help out, since Lynda couldn’t manage to eat it all. Pete meanwhile decided to see what Wagyu Beef was all about with Grilled Bavette of Wagyu Beef, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Brown Butter Celeriac in a Bone Marrow Bordelaise. The expected ‘liver like’ mouth feel of the beef was there, but the beef was tasty and went perfectly well with the mushrooms, celeriac and sauce. Whilst he wouldn’t fault the kitchen, Pete will stick with rib-eye steak or Prime-Rib in future. He also couldn’t resist the Garden Pear Frangipane Tart with Huckleberries, Crème Anglaise and Mint Whipped Cream, a heavenly concoction which he washed down with a N.V. Chambers Rosewood Muscadelle (Tokay) from Australia, while Lynda made do with a glass of alcoholic raisin juice, a.k.a. El Maestro Sierra Pedro Ximenez from Jerez in Spain.
By now we were feeling no pain, especially since the Applewood was exceedingly good value for a Its Michelin star, and we got back to the West Sonoma Inn & Spa without incident.
So, how did Russian River match up? We loved the quality of the wines at Hartford, definitely up a notch up on New Zealand, and we think better value than Burgundy for an equivalent quality.
Full of anticipation and a case stuffed full of my best LV handbags and fancy shoes, (after all I’d seen Marbella Belles and reckoned I could out-bling the best of them …well, minus the fake boobs, fake tans and liposuction) I was ready for my introduction to the Costa del Sol. Courtesy of the lovely Joyce and Terry (pictured left) we were about to spend the weekend in Puerto Banus, the legendary site of millionaire yacht owners, glitzy night spots and of course, Josh’s stag weekend.
After breakfast at Chez Gerard, T3 (adequate but not brilliant) and an uneventful flight we landed in Malaga in brilliant warm sunshine. I was beginning to see what the Brit’s love affair with the Costa del Sol was all about, and not just for tax evasion purposes (allegedly). After settling in to T&J’s lovely townhouse on the outskirts of Puerto Banus, we headed immediately to their local bar. Starting as we meant to go on, i.e. constant eating and drinking, we ordered a quick pizza to keep us going and I had one of my favourite holiday drinks, a cuba libre (bacardi and coke to you). When it arrived it reminded me of why I love Spain so much, after that measure of bacardi, my cuba was indeed libre…i.e half cut.
We went to the Supermarket to buy essentials like milk, bread and gin on the way home and again I was blown away by how beautifully the Spamish make their Serrano ham. This is just the equivalent of the local Spa shop, and yet look at these beauties.
A short taxi ride in to the port and our evening of glam fun was about to begin. Although out of season and so far less crowded than usual Puerto Banus did live up to its reputation. I was indeed rather entranced by the parade of designer shops and showy, expensive cars that seemed to just drive round endlessly, maybe if I had an Aston Martin I’d do the same? The legendary Sinatra’s bar was some of the best people watching I had enjoyed for a long time as I sipped my obligatory glass of Moet. Wasn’t it sweet that the ancient wrinkled Russian mafia-type in the corner was taking out his grand-daughter for the evening? How kind mother nature had been to the extremely skinny girl with the bee stung lips and a 40G bust? How unfortunate that the group of young blondes at the bar, simpering at the group of OAP golfers appeared to have forgotten their skirts and were only wearing belts? Perhaps it was “Help the aged week” as their lack of skirt length seemed to envigorate the ageing golf-types, – charity begins in Puerto Banus it seems. Okay, cynicism apart, it is terrific fun, go and people watch for yourself!
Our choice of restaurant that evening was amazing, due to the lack of people everyone was trying to entice us in, but we shunned the ever popular Picasso’s and ended up falling for the charms of a simple restaurant on the strip called The Grill del Puerto.They started us off with a loaf of hot bread that they carved at the tableside and we sampled the house red and rose wines, which were actually lovely. Three of us had the local speciality Prawns pil pil, which came swiming in garlicky olive oil. A tad over-cooked , but then the Spanish to have a tendency to overcook their seafood everywhere, alas. Good enough flavours however, and perfect for dunking that lovely hot bread . I had the serrano ham, with some of the sweetest melon I have ever tasted. The highlight of the main courses was Terry’s rabbit stew, which although slighly overcooked, was tender and bursting with flavour. My lamb stew was okay, but maybe could have done with a little longer slow cooking. We finished with the obligatory flan, but were pleased to get a rather lovely apple liquor served with it. Completely clear and ice cold it was very reminiscent of a New York appletini, yum yum! At 18.50 euros a head for the set menu, we thought it a good meal and would go back.
The next day we went to Old Marbella for a wander round, and how beautiful it was. Fabulous little cobbled streets, interesting shops and bags of character. We sat in the glorious sunshine in orange Square and had drinks and a plateful of ham and cheese, to feed my growing protein addiction. We walked down to Marbella beach for lunch at La Red, a half on the beach, half on the shore restaurant that did amazing fish and paella. .The dish of the meal for me was the babysquid in black ink, which once you got over the appearance, were delicious. Do try it if you are there, the stuffing is delicious. This was accompanied by a couple of massive seafood paellas and several bottles of the house wine, it was a wonderful, beachside lunch, to be highly recommended at 20 euros a head.
A stagger back to the house and a lovely siesta and what next? Yes, more eating! Terry and Joyce had booked us in to one of their favourite eating places, The Patio, a traditional Spanish-run restaurant. After a Spanish-style amuse bouche of fish in mayonnaise on some toast, we had some amazing starters. Thin slivers of aubergine, deep fried and drizzled with honey,traditional ham croquettes(served rather bizarrely with crisps!), scallops in a cava sauce and mussels au gratin. These were really good and quantity enough for at least another 8 people, so do go there hungry! My main course was amazing,a slow-cooked oxtail stew, which was flavourful and tender. Don’t have it unless, like me you are not afraid of bones and a very rustic presentation, but honestly , it’s worth it. the others had lamb chops, duck and a very tasty pork fillet with spinach. We followed it with a shared creme brulee which probably wasn’t worth the calories. A really lovely meal, which worked out at about 30 euros per head.
The following day we were leaving to go home, so the choice of final lunch was key. We drove along the coast a little to Alveria and had lunch by the sea at the picturesque Ra-Ma restaurant. A perfect choice for our last, lingering food fest. To start we shared crispy, fresh calamari and the prawn pil pil followed by a huge plate of locally fried fish and the amazing noodle version of the paella, the Fiduela which was heavenly. This is a must to try next time you are in Spain. I will be trying to re-create this recipe, so watch this space.
So, the end of a brilliant weekend, what were the highlights? Tapas in Orange Square? Oxtail stew or the amazing noodle paella, or Terry as the only male salsa dancing with a group of 40,female religious enthusiasts at the Andalucia hotel? Actually, perhaps best not to mention that…viva espana!
I often ask myself whether I am a competitive person, and whilst I would probably answer “No”; everybody who knows and loves me would fall off their chairs laughing and recount many tales of my cheating at Scrabble, Monopoly….oh, the list goes on. All spurious lies of course, they are just bad losers! However, one of my most fun and definitely entertaining current competitive pastimes (rivalled only by The Court Drive Tomato competition) has been the Cooking competition I have been having with two other friends who are no amateurs in the kitchen. The deal is that we take it in turns to host a dinner party every few months, pretend none of us are doing any preparation or work whatsoever, whilst secretly scouring the pages of every cookbook known to man, and then effortlessly (supposedly!) produce a multi-course extravaganza to try and out-
Richard - currently in poll position
do the last chef’s efforts. Generally served with a nonchalant shrug of the shoulders and a well-hidden sense of relief. Well, the stakes ahve indeed been raised as our visit to Richard and Lisa’s was an absolute feast. Check this out….oh dear, my turn soon, where is Delia when you need her??
Richard (and Lisa’s) Hot, smoking dinner party
We started with some of Richard’s delicious smoked trout (recipe to follow) but here are the recipes for the main course and dessert.
Duck 3-ways – Richard’s recipe
Duck cooked three ways
Hot smoked duck breast.
I like to make this in batches and freeze it. It’s great hot or cold with a celeriac remoulade or orange dressed salad. You will need: 6 duck breasts, 1 good pinch of black pepper, 1 good pinch of salt, 2 tbsn of olive oil.
Method.: Light the BBQ. in advance. Rub the oil, salt and pepper into the duck and leave in the fridge covered for 30 mins. After the 30 mins pat dry with some paper and place into a hot smoking pan suspended above some wood chips. Heat on full heat on the bbq for 30 mins. If you are going to eat it cold place in a sealbale plastic bag and immerse immediately into iced water (to stop cooking processes) for at least 10 mins or serve warm as is. Leave them in the bags freeze it. To serve from frozen, defrost naturally, and still in the bag immerse in boiling water for a maximum of 10 mins. Carve it and serve.
Celeriac Remoulade.
This is a basic coleslaw with a difference. It can be made a day in advance but is always better the same day. You will need:1 Celeriac, Mayonnaise (home-made if you’re feeling fancy!), Anchovies (smoked if you can find them), Caper, Dijon Mustard, some Cornichons, Sweet Silverskin Pickled Onions, Salt and Pepper to taste.
Method: Finely chop the capers, anchovies, cornichon, pickled onions. Grate the celeriac and place in a non metal bowl. Combine the mayonnaise and the chopped capers, anchovies, cornichon, pickled onions and dijon mustard. Combine the Celeriac and the mayonnaise mix together. You will note there are no measures in this remoulade recipe. This is because you should taste as you go getting it just right for you. Season with the salt and pepper.
Cured Duck Breast with Pickled Ginger and Chilli Dressing
It is nearly impossible to buy cured duck in the UK but it is so nice and so easy to make.
Salt cure for 6 duck breasts¾ teaspoon freshly ground black peppercorns, ¾ teaspoon of freshly ground coriander seeds., 1 ½ teaspoons of fresh thyme leaves, 3 bay leaves, 75 g salt, 60 g sugar
Method.Combine the pepper, coriander, thyme and bay leaves into a mortar and pestle. Grind them one more time. Then add the salt and the sugar. Now take 6 duck breasts, pat them dry with paper, coat the breasts with the cure and place in a non metallic bowl. Make sure each breast is completely coated and poor any excess cure mixture into the bowl. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge to cure. I like mine quite strong so recently cured them for 26 ½ hours. If you want a more subtle flavour I recommend a minimum of 12 hours. I suggest you read the whole recipe first as if you like a more subtle cure you may want to make the dressing first. After the duck has cured remove from the bowl and wash off all the cure. Place in a glass ovenproof dish with 300 mls of tepid water. Then place in a preheated oven at 160 deg C for 20 mins. Carve lengthways and serve with the dressing. Great hot or cold.
For the Pickled Ginger and Chilli dressing. This makes a tangy dressing that really cuts through the cured duck., 110g fresh Ginger., 1 ½ chillies (not too hot)., 40g sugar, 300 ml white wine vinegar, 6 juniper berries, 1 cinnamon stick.
Method.:Peel the ginger and slice it into matchsticks. Thinly slice the chilli. In a small bowl or jar combine the ginger and chilli with 1 teaspoon of salt and set aside. Pour the vinegar, remaining salt, juniper berries and cinnamon stick into a pan and bring to boil. Once the pan has boiled for 5 mins add the ginger, chilli salt mix you reserved earlier. Turn off the heat and cover allowing to cool. Place on a shelf in the kitchen for 24 hrs.
Confit of Duck.
This is a real winter favourite in my family. Served with either a red wine bean and chorizo stew or with an orange dressed salad. Everyone thinks confit of duck is hard to make. Nothing could be further from the truth! If stored correctly will keep in a shelf in the garage for 3 months or in a fridge for 6 months. It is simply the original fast food, for those days when you don’t want to spend ages in the kitchen. I make mine in batches of 6 in advance, I deliver a roasted duck leg that is tender and moist in 20 mins from the fridge. You will need: 6 duck legs, 40 g of salt flakes, 1 good pinch of freshly ground pepper, 2 tspns fresh thyme leaves, 6 cloves of fresh garlic (crushed), 1 tablespoon of olive oil., 3 x 300 ml tins of goose fat.
Combine the thyme, salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil in a small bowl. Smear the mixture (known as “the cure”) all over the duck legs and place in a non metallic bowl. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for 12 hrs. After 12 hrs take the duck legs out of the fridge, preheat the oven to 160 deg C. Place the duck legs into a roasting pan, leave the cure on the duck legs it adds flavour. Here you must be careful, as the more space left in the pan after the duck legs are in it, the more goose fat you will need. Now pour into the pan the goose fat making sure you cover the duck legs. Place in the oven for 1 hr and 15 mins. If you intend to store your confit, have a clean non metallic container with a lid ready. Allow the pan to cool for 5 or 10 mins. Then using tongs remove the duck legs (careful the fat will still be hot) and pack them into the container. I use a tupperware container with a locking lid. Once packed pour the goose fat over the duck legs. Ensure you fully cover the legs in goose fat. Place the lid on the container and store. To warm up simply remove a duck leg and place it on a roasting tray in an oven heated to 150 deg C for 15 mins.
Orange Dressed Salad: A simple salad the cuts through the fat of duck especially confit. It takes 5 mins to make. But the dressing is better made earlier the same day. You will need: 1 bag Watercress, A good pinch of salt, A good pinch of pepper3 oranges., ½ glass of orange juice, Olive oil
Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart -(Serves 8) – Lisa’s recipes
1 x quantity sweet shortcrust pastry, enough for a 23cm diameter, 3cm deep tart tin
For the caramel: 225g caster sugar, 100g cold butter, cubed, 100ml double cream, 1 heaped tsp sea salt flakes
1) Heat the oven to 180dec C (170 fan oven), gas 4. Thoroughly butter a 23cm x 3cm deep tart tin. Roll out the pastry to no more than 5cm thickness, put into the tin, prick the base all over with a fork and put in the freezer for 10mins.
2) Remove the pastry from the freezer, and line with tin foil and baking beans. Blind-bake in the oven for 15-20mins. Take out of the oven, remove the beans and foil, brush the pastry with a little beaten egg, and put back into the oven for another 3-5mins until golden. Remove and set aside.
3) Put the sugar and 75ml water into a pan over a low heat to dissolve. Then add the butter and keep stirring to melt. Once melted turn up the heat, and leave to bubble away for 15-20mins until it has turned to a light toffee colour, stirring occasionally. Mix in the cream and sea salt, and boil for a further 3-5mins until slightly thickened. Allow to cool.
4) Gently melt the butter and chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, stirring now and again. Whisk the sugar, eggs and egg yolks until thick and creamy. Once the chocolate and butter have melted, leave to cool for 1min then add to the sugar and egg mixture, whisking until glossy.
5) Spread the caramel over the pastry base, and carefully spoon over the chocolate mixture, spreading evenly. Bake for 20mins or until almost set but still wobbly. Allow to cool in the tin before serving.
Serve with a berry coulis (I made raspberry and blackberry) and crème fraiche.
To follow with coffee:
Bramble Marshmallows (from “Good Food Magazine) Makes about 50
1) Line a 20x30cm tin with baking parchment. Mix the icing sugar and cornflour together in a bowl and dust some of it onto the parchment. Dissolve the gelatine in 150ml hot water in a heatproof jug.
2) Put the granulated sugar and liquid glucose into a pan with 200ml water, and dissolve. Then turn up the heat and boil until it reaches 125deg C on a sugar thermometer (firm ball stage). While this is boiling, beat the egg whites with an electric whisk until stiff.
3) When the syrup is ready, pour onto the egg whites in a steady stream and continue whisking, and also add the vanilla extract. Continue whisking for around 10mins until the mixture is very thick and glossy.
4) Pour half the mixture into the tin, and scatter the blackberries over. Then add the other half of the mixture and smooth. Cover with clingfilm and leave to set in a cool place for at least 2hrs. Best eaten within 48hrs.
Chocolate & Nut Fudge
Makes about 50
Depending on how rich you want the fudge, alter the ratio of dark:milk chocolate, this ratio is very rich!
250g plain chocolate, finely broken up, 100g milk chocolate, finely broken up, 350g tin condensed milk, 1tsp vanilla extract, Your choice of nuts (I used macadamia)
1) Line a 15x23cm tin with baking parchment. Put the chocolate and condensed milk into a heat-proof bowl and melt slowly over a pan of simmering water. Stir occasionally.
2) Stir in the vanilla essence and empty into the tin. Level the surface and sprinkle on the chopped nuts, pressing them lightly into the fudge. Cover and chill until firm, around 3hrs. Can be kept for upto 1month.
(N.B. Lisa’s recipes are from the “Good Food Magazine”.
Happy Halloween! Our Guest blogger Ellie is back with a solution as to what to do with all the bits of pumpkin you just hollowed out, whilst making your Happy Halloween Pumpkin lanterns. Katy and I have just finished ours and we are definitely going to try this recipe.
Who's more scary?
SPOOKY SOUP
I always find that carving a Halloween pumpkin is much harder work than I expected (despite insisting upon doing it every year)! Obviously it’s worth it in the name of scaring small children, but after all that knife-wielding exertion, you may need some manner of hearty, autumnal sustenance. What better than a lovely, easy pumpkin-curry soup?
This is such a foolproof recipe, you can pretty much add or take away anything you want, depending on your tastes, and it should turn out pretty well. Make it as hot as you like, or experiment with any herbs you fancy. However, this is a rough guide to making spicy pumpkin soup how I like it. You will need:
The innards of one pumpkin, seeds removed and the skin hopefully now forming a terrifying orange face at your window; flesh chopped into manageable chunks. One onion, chopped. A couple of cloves of garlic, chopped. One chopped up chilli (or more, or none – birds’ eyes are my favourite). A big pinch of dried curry leaves, or a big spoonful of curry powder. Approximately 750mls of vegetable stock – I am lazy so do it from cubes; any kind will do, but I like Kallo Organic best and would use two of them for this recipe. Salt and pepper to taste. A big dollop of double-cream if you’re feeling mildly decadent; half-fat crème fraiche if you’re in-between; or no-fat plain yoghurt if you’re on a diet. I am terminally dull and usually go for the latter, but it’s still really nice! A splash of the oil of your choice.
Heat up your oil in a big pan and throw in the onion, garlic and chilli. Cook until it all starts to soften but not go brown.
Chuck the pumpkin chunks in with it, add all the seasoning, and cook the lot until it’s going a bit golden and gooey (about 5 minutes).
Pour your stock in over the top, bring to the boil, and then simmer over a low heat for maybe 20 minutes, until the pumpkin has gone really soft.
If you have a hand blender (the kitchen gadget of champions, in my humble opinion), then whiz it up in the pan until it’s smooth; otherwise, obviously, you could stick it in a proper blender; if you are not lucky enough to own either of the above, a masher and a lumpy soup will still be tasty.
Dollop in your creamy component of choice, and then give it another whiz and heat it again for another minute or two. Serve with some sort of bread.
I would like to eat this with a cheesy naan, preferably whilst watching a bit of Alfred Hitchcock and wearing a ridiculous costume around the house. I always think it would be really nice with the seeds toasted and scattered on top, but I’ve never quite got round to trying it.
BUT WE DID!…..SO IF YOU WANT TO TOAST YOUR PUMPKIN SEEDS, IT’S VERY SIMPLE:
Take your pumpkin seeds (you can use butternut squash seeds as well, which is also good made in to Ellie’s soup as a pumpkin substitue). I tablespoon of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon paprika.
Pre-heat your oven to low – Gas Mark 1 120 degrees C for fan assisted, C140 not
Rinse your seeds and then pat them dry with some kitchen roll
Place in a bowl and stir in the oil, salt and pepper and paprika
Line a baking tray with aluminium foil
Spread the seeds out on the tray and place in the oven for around 15-30 minutes until golden brown or until your hear them start to pop
We were going to throw these on the top of the soup, but they were so delicious we ate them straight out of the oven with a glass of wine. Experiment with curry powder, worcester sauce, garlic or chilli oil,
Last Saturday 23rd October, I had the great pleasure of doing a live cooking demonstration for the launch day of Dorset Food Week.
9.30am in Dorchester High Street, there I was trying to beat cold hard butter in to soft brown sugar whilst smiling and attempting to look authorative about all thinks baking. It was at this point, that I began to wonder whether the rather over-enthusiastic approach to the chablis the night before with my lovely cousins had been appropriate? Oh well, cake and hangover – ideal for a Saturday morning! I was ably assisted by Louise, who did a sterling job of battling with noisy generators and cold washing up water. We survived, despite the over-heating oven which helped me to produce “well-caramelised” muffins (a euphemism for slightly burnt!) Thank God I had made some in advance! Anyway, a lovely crowd were very supportive and watched whilst I produce my version of Apple Cake followed by Apple Muffins and a Hot Toffee Apple Pudding, they were definitely put in a better mood after we distributed tasters of our champagne and limoncello cocktail, which despite it being mid-morning got a good reception. Check us out on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iqrDpFg4Vk or the lovely review that Sonia at the Maidenhead Advertiser has written
The Farmer’s market was excellent and touring the stands afterwards I bought some beautiful cheeses and honey, local ham and pates. What a great event, more places should support their local producers like that. Anyway, if you’d like a go at making Dorset Apple Cake…here is the recipe. Muffins and Toffee Apple Pudding to follow later in the week.
This spicy, moist apple cake can be served warm with custard or clotted cream or sliced cold. It is moist and delicious and best eaten within 2 days
Ingredients: 450g/1lb cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced, Juice of 1 lemon, 100g/4ozs unsalted butter, 175g/6ozs dark soft brown sugar, 2 large eggs, beaten, 3 tablespoons of golden syrup, 25 ground almonds , 225g/8ozs plain flour 5ml/1 teaspoon mixed spice, 5ml/1 teaspoon cinnamon, 10ml/2 teaspoons baking powder 3 tablespoons buttermilk or milk. For the topping: 1 tablespoon of clear honey, 1 tablespoon of Demerara sugar
Equipment: Mixing bowl, hand mixer (optional), sieve, 18cm/7inch round cake tin, greaseproof paper
Method
Pre-heat your oven to Gas Mark 3/170Cor 150C for a fan oven
Line the bottom of your tin with greaseproof paper and butter the sides
Weigh out your flour, spices and baking powder in to a separate bowl
Peel, core and chop your apples in to small pieces and place in a bowl with the lemon juice – stir thoroughly to make sure all the apples are coated so that they do not go brown – set aside
In your large mixing bowl, cream the butter and the sugar using your hand mixer or by hand until it is fluffy and creamy
Add the eggs gradually, mixing thoroughly as you do so
Add the golden syrup and ground almonds
Place your hand mixer aside and using your sieve, sieve the flour baking powder and spices in to your large mixing bowl
Using a spoon or spatula gently fold the flour in to the mixture
10. Fold in the buttermilk and the apples – DO NOT OVER MIX AS YOU WANT TO KEEP AS MUCH AIR AS POSSIBLE IN THE CAKE
11. Turn the mixture in to your prepared tin and bake for 1 to 1 ½ hours depending on your oven. It should be well risen and firm to the touch
12. Turn out on a rack to cool
13. When the cake is cold, brush it all over with the clear honey and sprinkle with Demerara sugar
OPTION: For a very grown-up version, whilst the cake is still warm, turn it upside down and make some holes in the bottom with a skewer and drizzle amaretto or brandy in to the cake.
Last weekend we decided to visit the Crown Inn at Hestonville, sorry I mean Bray. We went with a sense of trepidation and curiosity, as the Crown has been one of our favourite pubs over the last 20 years. A beautiful, old fashioned Engish country pub dating back to the 17th century, with roaring fires, steak and ale pie and friendly bar staff. The menu in the little restaurant hadn’t varied once over those twenty years and filet steak “Zrazzy Nelson” and their moules frites were always a delight. BUT time marches on and things progress. I do have to agree with the locals that it was a shame that it wasn’t taken over by someone new, but we decided to investigate anyway.
Certainly, Heston hasn’t changed any of the decor, I was very pleased to see the original black and white photos still on the wall (the one of the young man in uniform and his dog is my favourite) and the ambience felt exactly the same. None of the original staff appear to have been retained, but the people who helped us were very friendly and efficient and handled what was clearly a busy, fully booked Saturday evening very professionally and with a sense of humour. What has changed however, is that everyone seemed to be there to eat; there were very few casual drinkers who had just dropped in for a pint. Whilst it worked to our advantage on that particualr night, they do now allow you to book tables in the bar, which is not a policy I favour. This meant we did see quite a few hapless souls being turfed off table after table as they despertaely tried to find somewhere to sit. So really, it is essential to ring in advance ( 01628 621936).
The menu was simple, but good and not a hint of sardine ice cream, but basic pub food. We chose the potted duck to start and it was tasty and delicious, a little like a lovely, rich rillette. When it arrived I thought it looked small, but in fact the size was about right.
One of the main reasons we had come, was that we had been told that they were serving Hetson’s perfect burger (Remember him trying to create this on telly? check it out on youtube). However we were soon told that it was not in fact that recipe, but just his version of an ordinary pub burger. This was disappointing .
It was however a perfectly okay burger and everyone agreed that it was nice but not amazing. Surprisingly, they did not ask us how we would like the burger cooked, and this was a problem for Josh who likes his meat incinerated as it was served quite rare in the middle. To be fair, the rest of us loved it cooked this way.
Josh also requested some jalapenos, which they did not have, but after all, it was an English pub and not a Mexican restaurant, so that was no big suprise. The French fries were nice, thin and crispy .
I had the steak with a bone marrow sauce, which is delicious and rich and cooked to perfection. For dessert we had the banana Eton mess, lemon curd pudding and sticky toffee pudding. I don’t have photos of this unfortunately, but Louise did say it was the nicest sticky toffee pudding she had ever had and my taste of the banana Eton Mess was sublime.
We ended up paying about £35 per head including tip, which is more than enough for a pub meal, but the food was very good and we would go back. It is a shame that it’s not really the sort of place I’d just drop in for a gin and tonic, maybe in the summer when you can sit in the garden I might try it. I do respect the fact that they are trying to keep it a simple pub and as I say, the staff were charming and luckily, there wasn’t even a hint of snail porridge.
Why do I feel the urge to sing “Under pressure” really loudly. Jedward, oh Jedward what have you done to me? Okay so I know they’re not really saying “rice”, and my apologies to Vanilla Ice and of course, the amazing David Bowie.
When was the last time you made real Rice Pudding? No, not the canned Ambrosia type, but proper, proper Rice Pudding? many peple never do, because they think it’s incredibly complicated, but trust me it’s very, very simple and tastes completely different to the canned variety. (I do have to admit there is a secret place in my heart for canned rice pudding). the home-made variety is as wicked or as angelic as you want it to be (single cream instead of milk is wicked and I love golden syrup on it!). Ellie has become a great afficionado of the home-made variety and to follow is her recipe. She and I both agree that the lovely, browned skin on the top is the best bit..but that’s just us!
ELLIE’S RICE PUDDING
“So, this is such an easy and obvious recipe that it’s almost a non-recipe, really. However, it’s worth a mention just as an oft-forgotten classic, and as a very simple route to a nice bowl of autumnal comfort. This will serve 4 as a substantial pudding, or 2 greedy people for a weirdly lovely weekend lunch, that will mean maybe a little soup for supper (but that may just be me).
You will need: 100 grams of pudding rice (note from Kim: Don’t try this with any other type of rice) 50 grams of caster sugar, 700 litres of the milk of your choice (I actually use skimmed – it still turns out quite creamy enough and makes this a fairly low-calorie treat – but anything you like will do; I think soy milk might be nice in this but I haven’t tried it), A little bit of butter for greasing
Optional extras for a bit of flavour – a pinch of nutmeg or cinnamon works well, a bit of vanilla, a squeeze of lemon, whatever.
Method: Switch your oven on to Gas Mark #2/150C or 130C Fan assisted. Grease a medium-sized oven-proof dish. Mix together the rice and sugar, along with anything else you’re chucking in to the mix, and put into the greased dish.
Pour the milk over the top and give it all a good stir. Stick in the oven for around two hours, until it has a good skin on the top (the best bit, in my humble opinion) but still gives a good wobble when you give the dish a little shake.
Eat hot from the dish or cold later (the latter being particularly good with a swirl of jam), or better yet hot for pudding and cold for breakfast the next morning.”
“Calamity Jane” was one of my favourite movies. I remember vividly going to see it as a small child with my Aunty Lesley, who had a soft spot for Doris Day, as do I. In fact on a recent trip to Carmel, we visited her doggie-friendly hotel (The Cypress Inn) for cocktail hour. Do go along if you’re ever there, as the entertainment of all the different sizes and breed of dogs, not to mention the owners is unmissable.
Anyway, I am very excited that that our favourite Californian guest blogger Pete Russell has done a brilliant food review for us, the title of which made me want to crack my whip and sing “Secret Love”. I really should get out more….anyway, this is definitely on my hit list of places to visit.
HATHAWAY HAS A WAY AT THE WHIPTAIL GRILL
John Hathaway is an adrenaline junkie, he drives his motorbike at 180mph, throws himself out of planes, and owns the Whiptail Grll in Springdale Utah. But with 2 years of 90 hour weeks, he hired a couple of helps, taught one to cook, the other to prep and washup, and took over as maitre D’, or waiter!
Lynda and I happened across it one wet Tuesday evening after a very wet drive from Gallup NM on our way to Zion National Park. Most reviews were good, but these didn’t prepare us for the treats to come. We nearly didn’t get to eat there at all, as it was full when we arrived, but happily, as we turned dejectedly to go, a couple paid their bill and left, and we gladly took their places. Whiptail is set in what once was a gas station, and has 4 tables inside, and 10 tables outside, on this Tues, only inside was appealing.
We selected chips, salsa and guacamole to share as an appetizer, washed down with a Dos Equis Amber and the house Pinot Grigio, and very good and freshly made and prepared as it was, it didn’t herald what was to come. John explained his specials, a blackened Ahi Tuna, and a Peruvian chili rubbed rib-eye steak with an avocado compound butter. Pete chose the rib-eye and Lynda chose the Chipotle Chicken Enchilada from the regular menu.
John’s approach to alcohol is nothing if not eclectic, he lists some American and Mexican beers, and 4 beers from a local brewery, but only mentions that wines are available by asking the server. When asked, he said he had a Pinot Grigio, a Chardonnay, a Riesling (one glass left), a Pinot Noir and a Cab Sauv., not at all impressive.
However, when the mains arrived, along with 2 glasses of Ravenswood Cab Sauv, any misgivings were banished. Lynda’s enchiladas were subtly spiced, elegantly presented with chipotle marinated chicken, onions, green chilies, in a roasted tomatillo green chilli sauce and topped with cheese and salsa fresca. This was the best enchilada we had ever tasted, and we are no strangers to Mexican cuisine.
Pete’s juicy rib-eye was cooked to medium rare with the Peruvian chili rub gently tickling the spice meter and the avocado butter providing a complimentary creamy finish. Both mains were accompanied with black beans and a baby green salad with either a home made roasted red pepper or a chipotle dressing, we had one of each, both were excellent in their own way, but we couldn’t decide which was better.
We were discussing whether we had room for dessert when John delivered his signature dessert to our table, a habanero spiced chocolate and peanut butter creme brulee, and with a cheery “the faster you eat it the hotter it gets”, he disappeared to the kitchen. This was memorable, and nothing short of heavenly. The habanero gently clutched the back of the throat while the chocolate and thankfully almost non-existant peanut butter creamed the tongue and cheeks.
If and when you visit Zion, do give John’s Whiptail Grill an visit, you won’t be disappointed.
I want to visit now, Pete that looks amazing. Incidentally, people… any great mexican recipes are always welcomed! Send them in.
Actually, I really do love Lucy – Lucille Ball, that is, who I think was one of the most talented and wonderful comediennes who ever lived. I mean who could watch the “Vitameatavegamin” scene without falling over laughing? (Go check it out on Youtube if you’ve never seen it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrjWtPhO54s). One of my greatest sadnesses is that she and Desi Arnaz split up, but he did die in her arms…oh dear, enough of that or I may have to go and have a little sob…
Anyway, what a girl needs to cheer her up is a chicken pot pie. By a pot pie, I mean one that only has a top and no bottom (does that make sense?), which means it’s really easy to do. It is the perfect thing to make if you have leftover chicken, but is so good that it is worth cooking some chicken just so that you can make it. Anyway, this can be as easy or as difficult as you like depending on whether you rush out and buy some ready-made pastry or you indulge yourself in the recipe below, that was taught to me by Alain Roux at ‘The Waterside Inn’ and is flaky cholestrol heaven! Rough Puff pastry is the slightly less complicated little brother of Puff pastry and although it does seem like a real bother to make is a million times worth it once you’ve tasted it. I like to make double quantities and then keep half in the freezer for future use.
Ingredients
2 cups of cooked, diced chicken, 4 leeks, sliced, 1/2 glass dry white wine: For the sauce: 1/2 pint milk, 1 bayleaf, 3 peppercorns, tablespoon of butter, tablespoon of cornflour, salt and pepper to taste. For the Rough Puff Pastry: Either buy a really good qualityready-made butter puff pastry or take 250g of butter, cubed and very cold, 250g of plain flour and 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 125ml ice cold water.
Method
First if you are going to make the rough puff yourself do it a couple of hours or even days in advance!
*On a clean surface place the flour in a mound. Make a well in the middle and add the butter and the salt.
*With your fingertips, squeeze the butter and salt roughly in to the flour, until the mixture feels grainy but there are still small pieces of butter in it, it should look quite rough.
*Gradually add the iced water and mix with your fingers until it is all incorporated and forms a ball.
*Wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge for 20 minutes.
Flour the worksurface and roll out to approx 20 x 10 cms, fold it into 3 and then turn it round one quarter.
Roll the pastry to the same shape and fold in three again.
Wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Take it out of the fridge and place back on the floured surface and repeat your last process i.e. rolling, turning a quarter twice.
Wrap it up in clingfilm again and place back in the fridge for a final 30 minutes and it is ready to use.
Meanwhile, place the chopped leeks in a small saucepan and add the white wine, place over a low heat for about 5 minutes until the leeks are soft and cooked and have incorporated most of the white wine. In another non-stick saucepan, add the butter and the cornflour and place over a low heat. Mix continuously until the butter and flour are well blended (this is called making a roux). Add the milk little by little stirring thoroughly until well blended each time and then when all the milk has been added, place the peppercorns and the bayleaf and stir until it gently comes to the boil. the sauce should then have a thick, smooth consistency. If it is too thin, add a little more cornflour mixed with cold milk until it is nice and thick. Season with salt and pepper to your own preference. Take off the heat and add the leeks and the chicken to the white sauce. I often throw in a handful of frozen peas or diced cooked carrot at this stage.
You are now ready to assemble your pie! Place the chicken and leek mixture at the bottom of your pie dish. Roll out your pastry so that there is enough to cover the whole dish then make a few small incisions in the middle for the steam to escape. use extra pastry to make a double border round the outside, or pretty shapes – whatever you like! Brush all over with a little milk or egg yolk and place in the oven, Gas Mark 4, Fan assisted 160 degrees, non-fan 180 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes or until the pastry is risen and golden. This is lovely served with plain, mashed potato.
Enjoy and do use this pastry for any other savoury pies such as steak and ale.
Don’t get excited, it’s not that sort of a blog. We are talking about preparing for Christmas Day and today we are making Cranberry Sauce as demonstrated by the lovely Ellie, pictured above.
2 tablespoons of triple sec, 1 tablespoon tequila: for a very grown-up “cosmopolitan meets margarita-style sauce.
The Bombay Boys 
