Category Archives: Restaurant Reviews

Despite flu, freezing temperatures and airport delays, we started 2011 with a visit to Edinburgh to celebrate the 40th birthday of the lovely Sherri (the baking diva of white chocolate chip cookie fame).  Staying at the magnificent Balmoral Hotel in Princes Street (best shortbread, ever) we turned up for her surprise birthday dinner arranged by her partner, Mark.

Edinburgh is rich in michelin starred restaurants and in fact the dining room at the Balmoral itself has a michelin star, but in the week after New Year, only one was open! At least that took away any disagreement as to where we went, although I have to say I was a little disappointed to miss out on ‘the Kitchin’ as Tom Kitchin is rather a favourite of mine, curly haired little minx that he is.

A short taxi ride from the city centre and we arrived at the Plumed Horse.  The restaurant was first started at Crossmichael in 1998 by chef Tony Borthwick and his then business partner. It did exceptionall well for an out-of-town restaurant and when it moved premises to the business area a couple of years ago, breaths were bated as to whether he could sustain his michelin star, which he did in 2009. The restaurant itself is unpretentious and reasonably small, but the staff were welcoming, this is not over-the-top michelin glitz, but felt comfortable. They display paintings from local artists on their walls, which I though was a great idea to promote the local art scene. We opted for their tasting menu at £59.00 per head with a wine selection for each course at a further £40 per head.

Unexceptional canapes kicked off with a lovely glass of champagne to toast the 40th birthday, followed by a really delicious veloute of Jerusalem artichokes, which was light and fluffy, garnished with a quail’s egg, chives and truffle oil. This was followed by the fish course which was Sauteed Fillet of Sea Bream, Hand Dived Scallop,Chickpea, Smoked Haddock & Crab Casserole,Saffron & Mild Curry Spices which I found mildly disappointing – the sea bream wasn’t as melting as I would like and I couldn’t taste either the crab or the curry in the casserole. The next course of foie gras and wood pigeon was rich and flavoursone and the thyme brioche accompaniment was very good with it. As the birthday girl commented “Who doesn’t like bread?’. This was followed by  Lamb with spinach, clapshot (mashed potato, turnip and carrot), Rosemary & Garlic Gnocchi and lamb jus. The lamb was nice, but not amazing and I found the clapshot a little bland whereas the gnocchi were almost over-seasoned but all in all a very nice dish. We were served a pre-dessert which was really the first time the whole table “ooh-ed and ahh-ed”. This was a small glass dish with a lemon and ginger meringue dessert that was sublime, better in fact than the actual dessert which followed it, Honey & Clotted Cream Parfait with mulled wine poached plums. There wasn’t anything wrong with this dessert, in fact the parfait itself was creamy and delicious, but honey and plums simply aren’t my favourites.  the meal was rounded off with some petits fours served on a thoughtfully “Happy Birthday” chocolate  iced plate.

The wine choices throughout the meal had been well worth it, they were thoughtful and well-suited to the food and plentiful to the extreme, as our lovely waiter was simply serving a quarter bottle each per course.

We had a fantastic evening, Sherri looked and was amazing on her birthday night and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Would I go back even if it was local to me? I would probably give it another chance as some of the food was very good, but at no point was I blown away, but do remember, I’m very critical!

Full of anticipation and a case stuffed full of my best LV handbags and fancy shoes, (after all I’d seen Marbella Belles and reckoned I could out-bling the best of them …well, minus the fake boobs, fake tans and liposuction) I was ready for my introduction to the Costa del Sol. Courtesy of the lovely Joyce and Terry (pictured left) we were about to spend the weekend in Puerto Banus, the legendary site of millionaire yacht owners, glitzy night spots and of course, Josh’s stag weekend.

After breakfast at Chez Gerard, T3 (adequate but not brilliant)  and an uneventful flight we landed in Malaga in brilliant warm sunshine. I was beginning to see what the Brit’s love affair with the Costa del Sol was all about, and not just for tax evasion purposes (allegedly). After settling in to T&J’s lovely townhouse on the outskirts of Puerto Banus, we headed immediately to their local bar. Starting as we meant to go on, i.e. constant eating and drinking, we ordered a quick pizza to keep us going and I had one of my favourite holiday drinks, a cuba libre (bacardi and coke to you). When it arrived it reminded me of why I love Spain so much, after that measure of bacardi, my cuba was indeed libre…i.e half cut.

We went to the Supermarket to buy essentials like milk, bread and gin on the way home and again I was blown away by how beautifully the Spamish make their Serrano ham. This is just the equivalent of the local Spa shop, and yet look at these beauties.

A short taxi ride in to the port and our evening of glam fun was about to begin. Although out of season and so far less crowded than usual Puerto Banus did live up to its reputation. I was indeed rather entranced by the parade of designer shops and showy, expensive cars that seemed to just drive round endlessly, maybe if I had an Aston Martin I’d do the same? The legendary Sinatra’s bar was some of the best people watching I had enjoyed for a long time as I sipped my obligatory glass of Moet. Wasn’t it sweet that the ancient wrinkled Russian mafia-type in the corner was taking out his grand-daughter for the evening? How kind mother nature had been to the extremely skinny girl with the bee stung lips and a 40G bust? How unfortunate that the group of young blondes at the bar, simpering at the group of OAP golfers appeared to have forgotten their skirts and were only wearing belts? Perhaps it was “Help the aged week” as their lack of skirt length seemed to envigorate the ageing golf-types, – charity begins in Puerto Banus it seems. Okay, cynicism apart, it is terrific fun, go and people watch for yourself!

Our choice of restaurant that evening was amazing, due to the lack of people everyone was trying to entice us in, but we shunned the ever popular Picasso’s and ended up falling for the charms of a simple restaurant on the strip called The Grill del Puerto.They started us off with a loaf of hot bread that they carved at the tableside and we sampled the house red and rose wines, which were actually lovely. Three  of us had the local speciality Prawns pil pil, which came swiming in garlicky olive oil. A tad over-cooked , but then the Spanish to have a tendency to overcook their seafood everywhere, alas. Good enough flavours however, and perfect for dunking that lovely hot bread . I had the serrano ham, with some of the sweetest melon I have ever tasted. The highlight of the main courses was Terry’s rabbit stew, which although slighly overcooked, was tender and bursting with flavour. My lamb stew was okay, but maybe could have done with a little longer slow cooking. We finished with the obligatory flan, but were pleased to get a rather lovely apple liquor served with it. Completely clear and ice cold it was very reminiscent of a New York appletini, yum yum! At 18.50 euros a head for the set menu, we thought it a good meal and would go back.

The next day we went to Old Marbella for a wander round, and how beautiful it was. Fabulous little cobbled streets, interesting shops and bags of character. We sat in the glorious sunshine in orange Square and had drinks and a plateful of ham and cheese, to feed my growing protein addiction.  We walked down to Marbella beach for lunch at La Red, a half on the beach, half on the shore restaurant that did amazing fish and paella. .The dish of the meal for me was the babysquid in black ink, which once you got over the appearance, were delicious. Do try it if you are there, the stuffing is delicious.  This was accompanied by a couple of massive seafood paellas and several bottles of the house wine, it was a wonderful, beachside lunch, to be highly recommended at 20 euros a head.

A stagger back to the house and a lovely siesta and what next? Yes, more eating! Terry and Joyce had booked us in to one of their favourite eating places,  The Patio, a traditional Spanish-run restaurant. After a Spanish-style amuse bouche of fish in mayonnaise on some toast, we had some amazing starters.  Thin slivers of aubergine, deep fried and drizzled with honey,traditional ham croquettes(served rather bizarrely with crisps!), scallops in a cava sauce and mussels au gratin. These were really good and quantity enough for at least another 8 people, so do go there hungry! My main course was amazing,a  slow-cooked oxtail stew, which was  flavourful and tender. Don’t have it unless, like me you are not afraid of bones  and a very rustic presentation, but honestly , it’s worth it. the others had lamb chops, duck and a very tasty pork fillet with spinach. We followed it with a shared creme brulee which probably wasn’t worth the calories.  A really lovely meal, which worked out at about 30 euros per head.

The following day we were leaving to go home, so the choice of final lunch was key. We drove along the coast a little to Alveria and had lunch by the sea at the picturesque Ra-Ma restaurant. A perfect choice for our last, lingering food fest.   To start we shared crispy, fresh calamari and the prawn pil pil followed by a huge plate of locally fried fish and the amazing noodle version of the paella, the Fiduela which was heavenly. This is a must to try next time you are in Spain. I will be trying to re-create this recipe, so watch this space.

So, the end of a brilliant weekend, what were the highlights? Tapas in Orange Square? Oxtail stew or the amazing noodle paella, or Terry as the only male salsa dancing with a group of 40,female  religious enthusiasts at the Andalucia hotel? Actually, perhaps best not to mention that…viva espana!

“Calamity Jane” was one of my favourite movies.  I remember vividly going to see it as a small child  with my Aunty Lesley, who had a soft spot for Doris Day, as do I. In fact on a recent trip to Carmel, we visited her doggie-friendly hotel (The Cypress Inn) for cocktail hour. Do go along if you’re ever there, as the entertainment of all the different sizes and breed of dogs, not to mention the owners is unmissable.

Anyway, I am very excited that that our favourite Californian guest blogger Pete Russell has done a brilliant food review for us, the title of which made me want to crack my whip and sing “Secret Love”. I really should get out more….anyway, this is definitely on my hit list of places to visit.

HATHAWAY HAS A WAY AT THE WHIPTAIL GRILL

John Hathaway is an adrenaline junkie, he drives his motorbike at 180mph, throws himself out of planes, and owns the Whiptail Grll in Springdale Utah. But with 2 years of 90 hour weeks, he hired a couple of helps, taught one to cook, the other to prep and washup, and took over as maitre D’, or waiter!

Lynda and I happened across it one wet Tuesday evening  after a very wet drive from Gallup NM on our way to Zion National Park. Most reviews were good, but these didn’t prepare us for the treats to come. We nearly didn’t get to eat there at all, as it was full when we arrived, but happily, as we turned dejectedly to go, a couple paid their bill and left, and we gladly took their places. Whiptail is set in what once was a gas station, and has 4 tables inside, and 10 tables outside, on this Tues, only inside was appealing. 

We selected chips, salsa and guacamole to share as an appetizer, washed down with a Dos Equis Amber and the house Pinot Grigio, and very good and freshly made and prepared as it was, it didn’t herald what was to come. John explained his specials, a blackened Ahi Tuna, and a Peruvian chili rubbed rib-eye steak with an avocado compound butter. Pete chose the rib-eye and Lynda chose the Chipotle Chicken Enchilada from the regular menu. 

John’s approach to alcohol is nothing if not eclectic, he lists some American and Mexican beers, and 4 beers from a local brewery, but only mentions that wines are available by asking the server. When asked, he said he had a Pinot Grigio, a Chardonnay, a Riesling (one glass left), a Pinot Noir and a Cab Sauv., not at all impressive. 

However, when the mains arrived, along with 2 glasses of Ravenswood Cab Sauv, any misgivings were banished. Lynda’s enchiladas were subtly spiced, elegantly presented with chipotle marinated chicken, onions, green chilies, in a roasted tomatillo green chilli sauce and topped with cheese and salsa fresca. This was the best enchilada we had ever tasted, and we are no strangers to Mexican cuisine.

Pete’s juicy rib-eye was cooked to medium rare with the Peruvian chili rub gently tickling the spice meter and the avocado butter providing a complimentary creamy finish. Both mains were accompanied with black beans  and a baby green salad with either a home made roasted red pepper or a chipotle dressing, we had one of each, both were excellent in their own way, but we couldn’t decide which was better. 

We were discussing whether we had room for dessert when John delivered his signature dessert to our table, a habanero spiced chocolate and peanut butter creme brulee, and with a cheery “the faster you eat it the hotter it gets”, he disappeared to the kitchen. This was memorable, and nothing short of heavenly. The habanero gently clutched the back of the throat while the chocolate and thankfully almost non-existant peanut butter creamed the tongue and cheeks.

If and when you visit Zion, do give John’s Whiptail Grill an visit, you won’t be disappointed.

I want to visit now, Pete that looks amazing. Incidentally, people… any great mexican recipes are always welcomed! Send them in.

HELLO, MY NAME IS ELLIE AND I LIVE IN BRIGHTON.

 The Bank Holiday is looming and, judging by the traffic along Brighton front on such long summer weekends, many of you may be heading to the seaside.  So, as a resident of cosmopolitan, city-on-sea Brighton (also known as “the smuggest place in Britain”, according to at least one national newspaper), I offered (or, rather, begged) to write a guest blog on all things foodie in my ‘hood.

 BREAKFAST.

 First of all, after that long drive or train journey, you might want a little breakfast sustenance.  One of the best things about Brighton is (being, basically, a city full of lazy hippies; as Julie Burchill, one of my favourite local residents, once said “Brighton is just a town of coffee bars”) that there is a very relaxed, café sort of vibe that really lends itself to the wonderful pastime of Going Out For Breakfast.

 My ultimate favourite place to do this – and it’s such a well-kept Brighton secret that I am reluctant even to speak its name – is Billie’s (no website; 34 Hampton Place).  It’s a little off the beaten track so not one that you’d be likely to stumble across, but only a five-minute walk from the station/centre.  The speciality at Billie’s is the marvellous “hash”, of which they serve every conceivable variety (although there are also more traditional breakfasts on offer, plus excellent pancakes, you’d be made to miss out) – basically, fried potatoes with anything else chucked in there that you fancy, served in epic quantities and usually with a fried egg and a mass of grated cheese on the top.  Get there early or be prepared to queue and/or budge up, as this place is a tiny little gem! 

If you fancy staying in the Lanes and doing a bit of people-spotting – and/or you are on the look-out for a veggie/vegan/slightly healthy option – the delightfully-named Wai Kika Moo Kau (go on, say it out loud) in Kensington Gardens (pretty much the coolest/weirdest/busiest bit of the Lanes) is a winner (no website; 11a Kensington Gardens).  Everything is veggie or vegan, and all so amazing that even card-carrying carnivores may be converted – home-made granola with all sorts of lovely stuff piled in, proper porridge, or a veggie cooked breakfast, and an encyclopaedic selection of

exciting teas. Finally, for a slightly more upmarket breakfast venue, Bill’s Produce Store (www.billsproducestore.co.uk; 100 North Road) is still (obviously, we’re in Brighton) very relaxed and ‘local’ but very trendy.  Apparently, um, it’s Kylie Minogue’s favourite place for a Brighton breakfast (I never said I was cool).

LUNCH.   Now that you’ve killed that boring bit of the day between meals known as ‘the morning’ (some tips on how to do that in style at the bottom), it’s time for lunch.My favourite place to do this (and also Uncle Bear and Joss’s – look out for them!) is The Dorset (no website; 28 North Road).  It’s indisputably great for any meal at any time of day, but best at lunchtime.  Right in the middle of the north Lanes, it is a very cool French-style bar with outdoor tables that are so perfect for whiling away the afternoon that, well, it would be rude not to.  The menu is a good all-encompassing range that goes from excellent sandwiches and salads, to steak and chips or moules marinières.  I probably shouldn’t mention here that Kim was once so hung over that only a blue steak and a Bloody Mary for breakfast would do (at 8am) – and she was duly obliged by the chef without so much as a raised eyebrow.  The staff here are awesome, and it’s a great place to spot up-and-coming musicians (everyone in this place looks famous, whether they are or not).  While you’re there, you should really go over the road to buy a guitar at GAK (The Guitar, Amp & Keyboard Centre, that big, bright yellow building that you can’t fail to spot) and then have a pint of Harvey’s in the Heart in Hand next door, which has a brilliant jukebox. 

If you’re far fancier than I am, then you’ll probably be more inclined to head over to “Hove, Actually” as the locals insist upon calling it (they’re generally much posher than Brightonians, and still pissed off about being associated with the all the decadence that goes on a couple of miles to the east of them).  Over in Hove, The Real Eating Company (www.real-eating.co.uk; 86-87 Western Road) is a great place for lunch and has a lovely deli upstairs.  Food is unfussy and really good, with the emphasis on local and seasonal that is kind of the norm around here anyway – as such, the menu changes a lot, but last time I went there, I had a broad bean risotto with roasted beetroot and a glass of pink wine.  Lovely.  If you’re lucky, you might see local god Nick Cave and his gorgeous wife Susie Bick and equally gorgeous kids, who hang out here a lot.  And as you’re in Hove (Actually), you can always pop into Farrow & Ball or some fancy boutiques while you’re there.

Now, an adventurous option for the more energetic and intrepid of you (it involves a bit of a walk, basically).  Start at Brighton Pier (and maybe get a few of those fried donuts to start with – gross but truly magnificent, you know what I’m talking about; or at the very least a few whelks), and walk west along the seafront, taking in the refreshing sea air and maybe a visit to the world-famous fortune teller Professor Mirza, as you go.  Keep walking, past the majestic skeleton of the West Pier and at weekends a lovely little market, skirting the full width of Hove, going towards Portslade/Shoreham Harbour (merely a couple of miles, but at a leisurely weekend pace this might take a while).  You will go past many beach huts, Hove Lagoon, and then to the exciting bit – Millionaire’s Row, as the Western Esplanade is widely known, a gated community of f*ck-off houses with their own private bit of beach.  It’s a private road, but you can still get a good look, possibly of past and present celeb residents, that include Macca and Fatboy and, um, Wicksy off of Eastenders. 

And that’s not all – lurking behind Millionaire’s Row is a brilliant retro diner of the classic kind, Woodies (www.woodiesdiner.com; 366 Kingsway).  Check out the hot waitresses in their cute pink uniforms and have a burger or a tuna melt with a proper milkshake. 

 Then, on the walk back, if you’ve any room left, pop into Marocco’s (www.maroccos-restaurant.co.uk; 8 Kings Esplanade) for the best ice-cream selection in B&H.

AFTERNOON TEA.    Sod the Grand.  When it comes to afternoon tea, there is only one place to go in Brighton, and it’s in Kemp Town.  Walk up St James’s Street (which is a village-y treasure trove of charity shops and gay bars, for anyone who’s interested in either – “yes, please” from me on both counts, as I am a pikey fag-hag), and turn left to find the wonder that is The Tea Cosy (their marvellous website at www.theteacosy.co.uk; 3 George Street).  Under the watchful eyes of Princess Di, Bet Lynch and Cher, you can enjoy everything from the “Beatrice & Eugenie Tea” (not very pretty and a bit limited, obv) all the way up to the “Princess Diana Memorial High Tea” (fancy, camp and so massive you might want to throw it up afterwards, too).  Seriously, though, their sandwiches and cakes and everything else are divine.  Although, you may want to make sure to have checked their list of “etiquette rules” before you arrive – you wouldn’t want to risk being ejected from the premises for having dunked your biscuit or clinked your tea spoon, nor taken unawares when they make you stand up for a chorus of the National Anthem and three cheers for her Majesty at four o’clock (disabled and infirm exempt).  Seriously, I’m not making this up.

Due South

DINNER.  

Now, it’s not exactly an insider’s secret, as it’s right on the seafront and has had some excellent national reviews, but Due South (www.duesouth.co.uk; 139 Kings Road Arches) still needs a well-deserved mention.  Serving genuinely exciting “modern classic” sort of food that all comes from within 30 miles of Brighton, it’s really foodie but decidedly unstuffy, and in a lovely location under the seafront arches.  Highly recommended for special occasions

or just as a gorgeous treat.  In contrast, this one really is an insider’s secret.  Again, I almost want to cry at the thought of sharing it with the world at large – but, Dear Reader, I would do you a disservice if I were not to do so.  Barry at the Tureen (no website; 31 Upper North Street) is one of the most special places I have ever been to (be sick if you want, but after months of walking past this place on my way to work and being utterly intrigued, my beloved booked it as a Valentine’s Day surprise about five years ago and we have been committed fans ever since).  Only open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, seating possibly a dozen, with a choice from a very tiny but wonderful menu – this is because it’s basically in Barry’s sitting room and he just cooks what he fancies.  It’s a bit like being at Grey Gardens with incredible food (generally veering in a classic English/French direction).  Barry is proper old-school Brighton, a charismatic raconteur – he cooks, then when it’s time for pudding and there’s not much left for him to do in the kitchen, he comes out for a glass of wine and a chat.  Not one to go to if you’re a picky eater or want a quiet, private dinner – but, otherwise, it’ll change your life for the better.

If you just want a casual dinner, with no gourmet food or raucous tales of days gone by, your best bet is to go to the Shakespeare’s Head (no website; 1 Chatham Place) just off Seven Dials.  Their ethos is simple but effective – along with good booze and a sexy, dim fairy-lights atmosphere, the only food they serve is sausages and mash.  However, this is not just any old sausage and mash.  You choose from three giant blackboards, one option from each – so take your pick from about a dozen varieties of local sausage, mash with any flavouring and addition you can think of, and then your gravy-type sauce.  So, you might have beef and chilli sausage, garlic mash, and cider gravy, or pork and stilton sausage, horseradish mash and red wine gravy.  It’s all good.  Personally, while you’re in that neighbourhood, I’d combine dinner at the Shakey’s with a trip to the Duke of York’s Picturehouse (http://www.picturehouses.co.uk/cinema/Duke_Of_Yorks ; Preston Circus) for their famous weekend midnight movies – the oldest continuous-use cinema in the country, easily recognisable by the plaster legs in striped stockings protruding from the roof, it shows films you won’t see anywhere else, serves delicious homemade cakes and booze in the auditorium, and has a lovely terrace bar.  This would be a relaxed but pretty damn cool evening with which to impress a new paramour, in my humble opinion.

LATE NIGHT SNACKS:  After a wild night out (that I would hope might include some combination of: cocktails at Havana, a pint of Harvey’s in the Battle of Trafalgar, seeing the best local bands at the Prince Albert, and getting on your sparkliest dancing shoes for Da Doo Ron Ron), you may be in need of a grotty snack.  Don’t be ashamed – we’re not here to judge, and Brighton is just the place for you.

Buddies (www.buddies24hour.net; 50 Kings Road), on the seafront, is a veritable institution (OK, mostly with clubbers and students and insomniacs) because it stays open twenty-four hours and is always packed.  It’s definitely not high-end cuisine, but a dirty fry-up never hurt anyone.  (Un?)surprisingly another story that involves Kim, but I have fond memories of a dozen or so ladies all cramming in here for 3am chicken and chips on Louise’s hen night.  Good times…

While we’re on this topic, we must give honourable mention to the noble Grubb’s (no website; 13 York Place).  It now also has branches in Hove and Kemp Town, but the real Grubb’s is on the London Road, and it’s the best burger joint in town.  My stepdad, John, lived in Brighton in the early 80s, and in recent years has been most relieved to learn that Grubb’s is not only still alive and well, but seems not to have changed even slightly in the past thirty years.  I always go for the classic cheese-and-mushroom (double), but the more open-minded of you may want to try the Caribbean.  In short: f*cking awesome.

FUN MISCELLANIA:

While you’re not eating, you might want to do something else.  The Pier and the Pavilion are classics for a reason – they’re brilliant.  However, if you’ve already been there and done that, you might want a few other suggestions.

If you’re pottering about the Lanes and want to spend some money, my favourite places to do this are: for clothes, Hope & Harlequin, Beyond Retro and Get Cutie, for the manly mods among you try Jump the Gun; for records, Resident (top fave) or Rounder Records, or anywhere in Trafalgar Street for second-hand vinyl; for books, City Books is well worth a trip over to Hove; for general junk and fear of getting lost, Snooper’s Paradise is, basically, Narnia.

Hipsters, art-lovers and investors will definitely want to head to the very cool Ink’d Gallery or Art Republic – both of which stock work by the stupendously talented local artist JC Faulkner (www.jcfaulkner.co.uk).  In the interests of full disclosure, I should mention that he only gets this shameless plug because he is still In Credit for taking me to Barry at the Tureen.

Lastly, I will probably be spending my Bank Holiday in the cool and quiet confines of the Booth Museum, Brighton’s very own museum of natural history and taxidermy.  It’s free and it smells weird, what could be better?  I’d move in if I was allowed.

Now you can head back to your hotel (The Grand, Granville or Pelirocco if you’re lucky) or get on the last train home, hopefully fully sated until next Bank Holiday.  Phew.  Please do post any further suggestions/arguments/alternatives/queries/comments – I’d love to hear them.  Thanks and bye!