I often ask myself whether I am a competitive person, and whilst I would probably answer “No”; everybody who knows and loves me would fall off their chairs laughing and recount many tales of my cheating at Scrabble, Monopoly….oh, the list goes on. All spurious lies of course, they are just bad losers! However, one of my most fun and definitely entertaining current competitive pastimes (rivalled only by The Court Drive Tomato competition) has been the Cooking competition I have been having with two other friends who are no amateurs in the kitchen. The deal is that we take it in turns to host a dinner party every few months, pretend none of us are doing any preparation or work whatsoever, whilst secretly scouring the pages of every cookbook known to man, and then effortlessly (supposedly!) produce a multi-course extravaganza to try and out-
do the last chef’s efforts. Generally served with a nonchalant shrug of the shoulders and a well-hidden sense of relief. Well, the stakes ahve indeed been raised as our visit to Richard and Lisa’s was an absolute feast. Check this out….oh dear, my turn soon, where is Delia when you need her??
Richard (and Lisa’s) Hot, smoking dinner party
We started with some of Richard’s delicious smoked trout (recipe to follow) but here are the recipes for the main course and dessert.
Duck 3-ways – Richard’s recipe
Hot smoked duck breast.
I like to make this in batches and freeze it. It’s great hot or cold with a celeriac remoulade or orange dressed salad. You will need: 6 duck breasts, 1 good pinch of black pepper, 1 good pinch of salt, 2 tbsn of olive oil.
Method.: Light the BBQ. in advance. Rub the oil, salt and pepper into the duck and leave in the fridge covered for 30 mins. After the 30 mins pat dry with some paper and place into a hot smoking pan suspended above some wood chips. Heat on full heat on the bbq for 30 mins. If you are going to eat it cold place in a sealbale plastic bag and immerse immediately into iced water (to stop cooking processes) for at least 10 mins or serve warm as is. Leave them in the bags freeze it. To serve from frozen, defrost naturally, and still in the bag immerse in boiling water for a maximum of 10 mins. Carve it and serve.
Celeriac Remoulade.
This is a basic coleslaw with a difference. It can be made a day in advance but is always better the same day. You will need:1 Celeriac, Mayonnaise (home-made if you’re feeling fancy!), Anchovies (smoked if you can find them), Caper, Dijon Mustard, some Cornichons, Sweet Silverskin Pickled Onions, Salt and Pepper to taste.
Method: Finely chop the capers, anchovies, cornichon, pickled onions. Grate the celeriac and place in a non metal bowl. Combine the mayonnaise and the chopped capers, anchovies, cornichon, pickled onions and dijon mustard. Combine the Celeriac and the mayonnaise mix together. You will note there are no measures in this remoulade recipe. This is because you should taste as you go getting it just right for you. Season with the salt and pepper.
Cured Duck Breast with Pickled Ginger and Chilli Dressing
It is nearly impossible to buy cured duck in the UK but it is so nice and so easy to make.
Salt cure for 6 duck breasts¾ teaspoon freshly ground black peppercorns, ¾ teaspoon of freshly ground coriander seeds., 1 ½ teaspoons of fresh thyme leaves, 3 bay leaves, 75 g salt, 60 g sugar
Method.Combine the pepper, coriander, thyme and bay leaves into a mortar and pestle. Grind them one more time. Then add the salt and the sugar. Now take 6 duck breasts, pat them dry with paper, coat the breasts with the cure and place in a non metallic bowl. Make sure each breast is completely coated and poor any excess cure mixture into the bowl. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge to cure. I like mine quite strong so recently cured them for 26 ½ hours. If you want a more subtle flavour I recommend a minimum of 12 hours. I suggest you read the whole recipe first as if you like a more subtle cure you may want to make the dressing first. After the duck has cured remove from the bowl and wash off all the cure. Place in a glass ovenproof dish with 300 mls of tepid water. Then place in a preheated oven at 160 deg C for 20 mins. Carve lengthways and serve with the dressing. Great hot or cold.
For the Pickled Ginger and Chilli dressing. This makes a tangy dressing that really cuts through the cured duck., 110g fresh Ginger., 1 ½ chillies (not too hot)., 40g sugar, 300 ml white wine vinegar, 6 juniper berries, 1 cinnamon stick.
Method.:Peel the ginger and slice it into matchsticks. Thinly slice the chilli. In a small bowl or jar combine the ginger and chilli with 1 teaspoon of salt and set aside. Pour the vinegar, remaining salt, juniper berries and cinnamon stick into a pan and bring to boil. Once the pan has boiled for 5 mins add the ginger, chilli salt mix you reserved earlier. Turn off the heat and cover allowing to cool. Place on a shelf in the kitchen for 24 hrs.
Confit of Duck.
This is a real winter favourite in my family. Served with either a red wine bean and chorizo stew or with an orange dressed salad. Everyone thinks confit of duck is hard to make. Nothing could be further from the truth! If stored correctly will keep in a shelf in the garage for 3 months or in a fridge for 6 months. It is simply the original fast food, for those days when you don’t want to spend ages in the kitchen. I make mine in batches of 6 in advance, I deliver a roasted duck leg that is tender and moist in 20 mins from the fridge. You will need: 6 duck legs, 40 g of salt flakes, 1 good pinch of freshly ground pepper, 2 tspns fresh thyme leaves, 6 cloves of fresh garlic (crushed), 1 tablespoon of olive oil., 3 x 300 ml tins of goose fat.
Combine the thyme, salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil in a small bowl. Smear the mixture (known as “the cure”) all over the duck legs and place in a non metallic bowl. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for 12 hrs. After 12 hrs take the duck legs out of the fridge, preheat the oven to 160 deg C. Place the duck legs into a roasting pan, leave the cure on the duck legs it adds flavour. Here you must be careful, as the more space left in the pan after the duck legs are in it, the more goose fat you will need. Now pour into the pan the goose fat making sure you cover the duck legs. Place in the oven for 1 hr and 15 mins. If you intend to store your confit, have a clean non metallic container with a lid ready. Allow the pan to cool for 5 or 10 mins. Then using tongs remove the duck legs (careful the fat will still be hot) and pack them into the container. I use a tupperware container with a locking lid. Once packed pour the goose fat over the duck legs. Ensure you fully cover the legs in goose fat. Place the lid on the container and store. To warm up simply remove a duck leg and place it on a roasting tray in an oven heated to 150 deg C for 15 mins.
Orange Dressed Salad: A simple salad the cuts through the fat of duck especially confit. It takes 5 mins to make. But the dressing is better made earlier the same day. You will need: 1 bag Watercress, A good pinch of salt, A good pinch of pepper3 oranges., ½ glass of orange juice, Olive oil
Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart -(Serves 8) – Lisa’s recipes
1 x quantity sweet shortcrust pastry, enough for a 23cm diameter, 3cm deep tart tin
For the caramel: 225g caster sugar, 100g cold butter, cubed, 100ml double cream, 1 heaped tsp sea salt flakes
For the chocolate layer: 100g caster sugar, 2 eggs, 2 egg yolks, 250g 70% cocoa plain chocolate, 150g cold butter, cubed
1) Heat the oven to 180dec C (170 fan oven), gas 4. Thoroughly butter a 23cm x 3cm deep tart tin. Roll out the pastry to no more than 5cm thickness, put into the tin, prick the base all over with a fork and put in the freezer for 10mins.
2) Remove the pastry from the freezer, and line with tin foil and baking beans. Blind-bake in the oven for 15-20mins. Take out of the oven, remove the beans and foil, brush the pastry with a little beaten egg, and put back into the oven for another 3-5mins until golden. Remove and set aside.
3) Put the sugar and 75ml water into a pan over a low heat to dissolve. Then add the butter and keep stirring to melt. Once melted turn up the heat, and leave to bubble away for 15-20mins until it has turned to a light toffee colour, stirring occasionally. Mix in the cream and sea salt, and boil for a further 3-5mins until slightly thickened. Allow to cool.
4) Gently melt the butter and chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, stirring now and again. Whisk the sugar, eggs and egg yolks until thick and creamy. Once the chocolate and butter have melted, leave to cool for 1min then add to the sugar and egg mixture, whisking until glossy.
5) Spread the caramel over the pastry base, and carefully spoon over the chocolate mixture, spreading evenly. Bake for 20mins or until almost set but still wobbly. Allow to cool in the tin before serving.
Serve with a berry coulis (I made raspberry and blackberry) and crème fraiche.
To follow with coffee:
Bramble Marshmallows (from “Good Food Magazine) Makes about 50
25g icing sugar, 25g cornflour, 9 sheets gelatine, 450g granulated or caster sugar, 1tblsp liquid glucose, 2 large egg whites, 1tsp vanilla extract, 150g blackberries
1) Line a 20x30cm tin with baking parchment. Mix the icing sugar and cornflour together in a bowl and dust some of it onto the parchment. Dissolve the gelatine in 150ml hot water in a heatproof jug.
2) Put the granulated sugar and liquid glucose into a pan with 200ml water, and dissolve. Then turn up the heat and boil until it reaches 125deg C on a sugar thermometer (firm ball stage). While this is boiling, beat the egg whites with an electric whisk until stiff.
3) When the syrup is ready, pour onto the egg whites in a steady stream and continue whisking, and also add the vanilla extract. Continue whisking for around 10mins until the mixture is very thick and glossy.
4) Pour half the mixture into the tin, and scatter the blackberries over. Then add the other half of the mixture and smooth. Cover with clingfilm and leave to set in a cool place for at least 2hrs. Best eaten within 48hrs.
Chocolate & Nut Fudge
Makes about 50
Depending on how rich you want the fudge, alter the ratio of dark:milk chocolate, this ratio is very rich!
250g plain chocolate, finely broken up, 100g milk chocolate, finely broken up, 350g tin condensed milk, 1tsp vanilla extract, Your choice of nuts (I used macadamia)
1) Line a 15x23cm tin with baking parchment. Put the chocolate and condensed milk into a heat-proof bowl and melt slowly over a pan of simmering water. Stir occasionally.
2) Stir in the vanilla essence and empty into the tin. Level the surface and sprinkle on the chopped nuts, pressing them lightly into the fudge. Cover and chill until firm, around 3hrs. Can be kept for upto 1month.
(N.B. Lisa’s recipes are from the “Good Food Magazine”.
The Bombay Boys 